What are the misconceptions about winter pruning of apple trees?

It is easy to make many mistakes during operation, and one should follow the operating procedures to get out of the misconception of winter shearing.

Different trees vary, avoid making generalizations

Many people are unable to accurately identify the variety, age, and growth of apple trees, and use a pruning method to cut them to the bottom, often resulting in over vigorous trees, weak trees not growing, larger trees in the first year, and smaller trees in the second year.

Correct approach: 

Before pruning, first, it is necessary to clarify the variety and establish pruning principles based on its characteristics. The second is to judge the tree vigor, and determine the severity and specific measures of pruning according to the strength of the tree vigor. For weak trees, pruning is the main method, while for strong trees, pruning is the main method. The third is to observe the number of flower buds and determine the amount of flowers to be retained based on the fruit setting rate of the variety, the load capacity of the tree, and the tree vigor.

Adjust the structure to avoid disorder and disorder

At present, the problem of disordered tree shape in fruit areas is quite common. As the tree ages, it causes hesitation in pruning large branches, making it difficult to start.

Correct approach: 

Measure whether the tree structure is reasonable according to the requirements of the standard tree structure, and whether the number, angle, space occupied, and subordinate relationships of the backbone branches are appropriate. When space permits, the main branch should maintain vigorous growth momentum, and the elongated head should be left with strong branches and short shoots to occupy sufficient space. Side branches and branch groups should be arranged in a planned manner.

According to the location, volume, and space of the auxiliary branches, the whole tree generally leaves 3-5 auxiliary branches.

Light cutting, long placement, avoid hitting the head together

Most beginners have the habit of hitting their heads together without looking at the buds. Due to excessive shortening, the branches blindly grow densely and vigorously, with bare inner chambers, making it difficult to flower, resulting in a large number of excessively long branches and too many developing branches.

Correct approach: 

The cutting of the central trunk, main branch, side branch, and auxiliary branch extension heads should be treated differently according to the needs. For those with small volume that need to continue expanding the crown, they should be shortened at the full bud of the extended branch; Those that do not require extension or excessive growth can be left standing without cutting. Branches with no utilization value should be pruned to facilitate ventilation and light transmission.

Pruning branches should not be mechanically applied

Many fruit farmers tend to prune branches roughly and mechanically, only using the method of retraction to update branches without considering their growth and age.

Correct approach: 

Firstly, after the results of the branch group are obtained, if the branch age is not old and the branch group is not weak, it should not be hastily retracted, and the branch should be nurtured. Secondly, for branches with weak growth due to consecutive years of fruiting, medium-sized branches should take the lead, leaving strong branches and buds, raising the growth angle, and thinning out overly dense and weak branches. Thirdly, for branches with good growth and fruiting ability, it is necessary to slow down and promote the growth before and after, combine cutting and placing, update alternately, and alternate fruiting, so that the ratio of nutrient branches to fruiting branches after cutting reaches 3:1.